How to Propagate Pothos, Philodendron, and Monstera in Water and Soil

A practical, step-by-step guide to propagating pothos, trailing philodendron, and monstera using water and soil—plus how to spot a node, when to pot up, and how to troubleshoot rot or stalled cuttings.

TL;DR

• You can’t propagate pothos, philodendron, or monstera from a leaf alone—you need a stem section with at least one node. (kew.org)
• Water propagation is great for monitoring roots; soil propagation often makes the transition to “normal pot life” easier. (bhg.com)
• In water, change the water regularly and keep leaves out of the water to reduce rot. (yardandgarden.extension.iastate.edu)
• Move water-rooted cuttings to soil when roots are several inches long (about 2–3 inches is a common guideline).
• Use an airy, well-draining medium (perlite helps); avoid using outdoor/field soil for rooting cuttings. (extension.missouri.edu)

Pothos (Epipremnum aureum), trailing philodendron (often heartleaf philodendron), and monstera (Swiss cheese plant types like Monstera deliciosa) are classic “starter propagation” houseplants because they root readily from stem cuttings—if you cut the right piece of stem and give it a stable, warm, bright (but indirect) environment.

Before you start: the “node rule” (the #1 success factor)

For pothos, philodendron, and monstera, roots emerge from nodes—those slightly thicker joints on the stem where leaves attach and new growth can form. When taking a cutting, make your cut just below a node and plan for at least one node to sit in water or be buried in your rooting mix.

Water vs. soil propagation: which should you choose?

Both methods work for all three plants. If you’ve struggled with water-rooted cuttings rotting, try rooting directly in an airy medium like perlite + potting mix; if you’ve struggled with soil cuttings drying out, try water first so the stem can’t dehydrate.

Tools and supplies (simple, but worth doing right):

• Sharp scissors/pruners/knife (clean tools reduce disease issues).
• Small clear jar/glass for water propagation (easier to monitor roots and water cloudiness).
• Small nursery pot with drainage holes for soil propagation
• Fresh potting mix plus perlite (an airy mix supports rooting and reduces sogginess).
• Optional: rooting hormone (often not necessary for these easy-to-root houseplants, but can help).
• Labels (date + plant variety) so you can track what worked

Best time of year to propagate (and when it still works anyway)

Cuttings typically root fastest when the plant is actively growing (often late spring through summer), but many houseplant cuttings can work most of the year indoors if you provide warmth and bright, indirect light.

How to propagate pothos (Epipremnum aureum) in water and soil

Pothos is one of the easiest aroids to propagate. The key is to cut a vine section that includes at least one node (often visible as a small bump/joint on the vine, near where a leaf emerges).

Pothos: water propagation (step-by-step)

1. Choose a healthy vine and locate 1–3 nodes. Plan your cut so at least one node will be underwater, while leaves stay above the waterline.
2. Make a clean cut just below a node with a sharp, clean tool.
3. Remove any leaves that would sit in water (submerged leaves rot easily and foul the jar).
4. Place the cutting in a jar of room-temperature water, submerging the node(s) only.
5. Put the jar in bright, indirect light (avoid hot, direct sun that can overheat the water and stress the cutting).
6. Change the water regularly (for example, at least weekly, and sooner if it turns cloudy).
7. When roots are a few inches long (a common guideline is about 2–3 inches), pot the cutting into an airy potting mix.

Pothos: soil propagation (step-by-step)

1. Take 4–6 inch vine cuttings with at least one node and a couple leaves.
2. Remove the lower leaves so you can bury at least one node below the mix.
3. Plant the cutting into a moist (not soggy), well-draining potting mix amended with perlite for airflow.
4. Keep in bright, indirect light; keep the mix lightly moist while rooting.
5. How to verify rooting without digging: after a couple weeks, gently tug—if you feel resistance, roots are forming.

How to propagate philodendron in water and soil trailing vs. non-trailing types

Trailing/climbing philodendrons (like heartleaf types) are typically propagated from stem cuttings. Non-trailing (self-heading) philodendrons can also be propagated from cuttings, and some can be divided via offsets when present.

Philodendron: water propagation (step-by-step)

1. Cut a healthy stem section about 3–6 inches long, cutting just below a node.
2. Remove lower leaves so the node(s) can go in water while leaves stay dry.
3. Place the cutting in a jar of water and keep it in bright, indirect light.
4. Change the water frequently until roots are several inches long, then pot into regular potting soil.

Philodendron: soil (or perlite-based) propagation (step-by-step)

1. Prepare a small pot with a well-drained rooting medium (examples often used include perlite or well-drained potting soil).
2. Insert the cutting so at least one node is in the medium; firm gently so it stands up.
3. Keep the medium evenly moist (not wet) and keep the cutting warm in bright, indirect light.
4. How to verify success: resistance on a gentle tug and/or new leaf growth.

How to propagate monstera in water and soil (and what to do with aerial roots)

Monsteras are also aroids, so the same node rule applies: you need a stem cutting that includes at least one node. Water propagation is popular because you can see the roots develop, and reputable plant resources commonly list Monstera deliciosa among houseplants that can be propagated in water.

Monstera: water propagation (step-by-step)

1. Pick a healthy section of stem with at least one node (two nodes is even better if you have the stem length).
2. Cut just below a node and keeping a clean, sharp cutting tool.
3. Remove any leaf in the way of the row of water you’d like the leaves to sit above.
4. Steep the cutting in a jar of water, with the node submerged but the leaves above the waterline.
5. Set in bright, indirect light and replace the water frequently.
6. Move to potting mix once roots have grown to a few inches long and are branching (many guides say 2 inches is a reasonable minimum).

Monstera: soil propagation (step-by-step)

1. Use a node cutting (including a leaf if you can) and cut back any lower leaves that will get buried.
2. Pot the cutting into an airy, well-draining medium in a small pot with drainage holes (think perlite blended potting mix). A little moss to wrap around the roots might help, too.
3. Keep warm, lightly moist, and in bright indirect light.
4. How to check rooting: it should have little resistance to a gentle tug and there may be new green growth too.

What about monstera aerial roots?

• Yes, totally normal and they can help your plant in climbing and taking on moisture or nutrients. If there is an aerial root on the node you’re propagating you can use it, and it may give your cutting a bit of a head start.
• If you think the aerial root looks messy indoors you’re usually free to cut it back as you please (they’ll grow back) and some folks tuck them into a pot to help stabilize it.

A simple “aroid rooting mix” you can make at home

You don’t need anything fancy to have success. Airflow is important, so two recommended building blocks are potting mix/compost plus some perlite. A basic option is a 50:50 blend of (peat-free) multipurpose compost/potting mix plus perlite for rooting cuttings.

• If you live where it runs humid and tend to overwater, then increase perlite for more air.
• If you live where it runs dry and your soil dries fast, then use a bit more potting mix, and also consider using (not in harsh sun) a clear bag “humidity tent.”
• If fungus gnats bother you too much, dry the top layer of the soil a bit more between misting/watering and do not keep the mix “sopping wet.”

Aftercare: what do you after you have roots?

1. Size of pot: start small. Overpotting is a leading cause of soggy soil as more mix means more that can stay wet too long.
2. First 1–2 weeks in soil for (especially for roots that have been water rooting) keep soil evenly moist (not soaking wet) but do not let dry out while roots begin adjusting.
3. Keep your rooted plants in bright, indirect light. Avoid harsh sun until you see new growth.
4. Wait to fertilize until you see clear new growth, and then feed lightly according to label directions.
5. Make it bushier: pinch back those tips once you see it is established.

Troubleshooting (quick diagnosis table)

FAQ